Simple Female Trouser Tutorial 

Simple Female Trouser Tutorial 


Long post alert… but if you manage to read to the end you shouldn’t have problems with trousers anymore.

Making trousers is one of the simplest projects I love doing, especially where the flyer is not needed. In the picture above, we see that the opening for the zip on this trouser is at the back, this means that this type of trousers is easier to make.



Measurements Areas Needed  

The diagram above shows the areas to measure when sewing female trousers.

1) Waist

2) Hip

3) Thigh

4) Knee

5) Calf

6) Instep

How to  measure crouch depth 

The diagram above shows two ways one can measure crouch depth. One way is ideal the other is not.

Putting your tape rule under a lady to measure her crouch depth as shown in the diagram above might take your beloved tape measure to places it would rather not go. Especially during periods the conditions there is not right ?? so the second way of measuring the crotch depth is more practical. Let your client sit down while you measure from her waist to the base of the chair, what ever measurements you get is her crouch depth. You can also take yours using the same process. See diagram below.

Theory Of Blocks   

Remember the theory of blocks in pattern construction? We have the front block and the back, but unlike skirt that has front and back our trousers have further divisions, meaning front block is divided into two, the back block is also divided into two.

Calculation For Cutting  Female Trousers 

Step 1. Divide the measurements for waist and hip into 4.

Step 2. Divide the measurement for thighs, knees, Calf, and Instep into 2

Step 3. The hip is the largest of all the circumferences here so use your derived measurement for the hip after your division into 4 to get your base for the blocks

Let’s use this Ankara to illustrate.

The plain paper is the base for my blocks, I want to create the design on the right. You see my plain paper is marked.your base should be into 4 for all the block division.

This is where you place your crouch depth measurement. Whatever measurement you got while measuring your crouch depth would be pleased on one side of your fabric starting from the waist down. Then you measure in about 2.5 to 3.5 depending on your size or more. See where my pencil is in the picture above. That’s where you take your 2.5 to 3.5 if need be. Then you curve it to from the crouch area. Sturdy the picture above well. Remember your base is in 4 folds.

The picture above shows how you place your measurements and link each figure together. Mark the waist measurement, add the hip and mark it. place your thigh measurement also and link all to the knee from both sides.

From the knee,you determine the shape of the ankle area ….if you want it big or small. For this Ankara design we will make it big.

I think it’s time I show you my present inspiration…….boli ati epa? I had to snack on this Nigerian delicacy roasted plantain and groundnuts washed down with a cold bottle of water……it’s amazing if you haven’t tried it?

OK back to class.

Remember your base for the blocks is 4, now the four can be cut equally or cut in such a way that the two blocks for the front is smaller than the two blocks at the back by 2 inches but at the end, the trouser will fit the initial measurement you started with. It just means you calculate the front smaller while the back will be bigger ensuring your measurements is the same.

This perticular Ankara trouser is cut the same…..meaning all four blocks are equal.when you cut yours don’t forget seam allowance for joining on all sides.

For the zip.The Ankara trouser has its zip at the back meaning it can be fixed the same way you fix a skirt zip.But if you want to fix the zip in front like regular trousers have flyers you cut it this way…..see diagram below

The Sewing

To sew,sew each leg separately on the side seam and inseam. Then sew both together at the crouch up to the point for zip

Ankara Top

Time to talk about the top for the Ankara trouser. The cut is so fabric on fold for front and back block measure out your length of top….wideness of bust waist and hip if need be.Get your arm hole area then cut out.

Here is the back block see diagram above. To do this cut the exact measurement you cut for the front.slash that into 2 and then shape it to get the design at the back.Add rope for holding the neck in place.

Hummmmmmmm if you are here now you have really tried. I hope you enjoyed the read.

You can do yours and copy this link or screen grab it to our Facebook group ” Valisimo Fashions Sew For Fun” for the illustrations so you don’t have to illustrate should in case you cant.

This was brought to you by Valisimo Fashion School. Our registration is on visit our Tuition page to check out our school fees

Love you all

Valerie Boglo

CEO Valisimo Fashions


Learn from the comfort of your home and on your own time from Annette Corrie- Director – La Mode College of Creative Industries. 
With over 10 years experience in the fashion industry, she worked as a Fashion Designer and Ladies-wear buyer and travels overseas 3 times a year to Tokyo, London, Paris, Hong Kong, Sydney and L.A. 
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40 Responses to Simple Female Trouser Tutorial 

  1. xterdynamic

    tank u ma

  2. mosun

    This is comprehensive. God bless u

  3. Omotayo

    Thank you so Much for this,now I can confidently sew my trouser myself…………ure the best ma’am

  4. Dolapo

    Need ur contact number pls

  5. Ajeigbe feyisara lawanson

    Good job, God bless u ma.

  6. Omono badero

    Easy to follow tutorial. Thank u so much

  7. Omono badero

    U are wonderful ma,am.

  8. Nyobata O Cynthia

    Thank you ma’m! Your pages and group are the best. God bless you

  9. Okpanachi Monica

    Awesome…God bless you ma

  10. Shirley

    Thank u ma!!! I have been looking for this illustration

  11. Anekeh

    I enjoyed the tutorial.

  12. Mbachu obiageri glory

    I would love to learn ma.08091202020

  13. Eleojo

    I really enjoyed the tutorial. You indeed blessed as an instructor. Please how can I get the DVD, I live in Port Harcourt. Thank you ma.

  14. Abimbola

    Thank u ma it really help show u my pratical soon

  15. Thanks for clear explanation

  16. Ekechukwu Chiamaka

    Pls i wnt to make inquiries abt your school

  17. Ifymanga

    God bless u

  18. Fatimoh

    Thank u maaaa

  19. very fantastic I love it. God bless you

  20. Ewaibadan

    Thanks ma

  21. Dade

    Thank you for this tutorial. It was really helpful. But in what cases do you use 3.5 instead of 2.5

  22. Very easy to understand and learn,tanks ma’am

  23. Nneka Blessing

    Ma I love it explanation.How do I get ur update to learn more

  24. This easy to understand – well done.
    pls how do I get the tutorial video?

  25. pls where can i get ur tutoring video

  26. Zainab

    Thank for the info

  27. This information is so helpful, a big thanks to vilisimo fashions designer

  28. Hmmmm wow this is really amazing I really enjoyed every step of the tutorial indeed ur a very good teacher may Jehovah bless you thank you

  29. Florence

    Thank u now I won’t have problem with trouser any more

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