This tutorial is for intermediate sewing students as it is more technical than a lot of the tutorials I have posted recently.
In this tutorial, you are going to learn two items together. Note that if you already know the basic sewing techniques this shouldnt be difficult. (If you require explanations for taking measurements CLICK HERE to watch my simple measurement tutorial.)
1) The peplum Blouse with trimmings design
2) The 6 pieces Skirt
You will need about 5- 6 yards of fabric depending on your size and trimmings about 6 yards of it.
The Peplum blouse– If you look closely at the design you will notice that the front has a black design from the body to the sleeve. In my first illustration below, I placed on the side the kind of item used to create the design. These are the trimmings and you can get it in different colours and types so after your blouse is made you then tack the trimmings all over the area you want.
I will explain the cutting first.
Note that your measurements may be different from this listed here so please use yours.
Note: Measurements used are calculated in inches.
Neck – 7 off shoulder neck
Shoulder circumference- 40
Sleve – 6
Upper bust 8 / 36
Bust – 10 /38
Under bust – 14 / 34
Waist 16 / 32
Half length blouse- 16
Blouse length 25
Hip – 42
Half length -18
Full length – 42
Divide key measurements areas into 2 and add seam allowance.
Bust 38 ÷ 2 = 19
Waist 32 ÷ 2 = 16
Hip 40 ÷ 2 =20
Using your blouse half length 16 lets cut the upper section of the blouse.
From shoulder down to the mid cut is 16. We would deduct 6 inches from the 16 to get the neck line at 7. So we are left with 10 inches.
On the 10, add seam allowance to make it 11 inches for joining at the waist and finishing at the neck.
Take out half an inch for the neck finishing.
Mark out the upper bust which will be 8 inches (that’s 2 inches from the inches left). Mark out your bust at 10 inches (thats 4 inch from your 11).
Under bust length at 14 (that’s 8 on your 11 inches)
We have divided the key measurements areas into 2 so we will use that next.
The largest part is the bust at 19 inches on this section so we fold our fabric into 2 using 19 inches plus 6 inches for seam allowance and easy.
Thats 19 + 6 = 25
25 width by length 11 will be your first cut. It’s on this that you mark out the measurements by the length which we have already calculated above.
Use your point-to-point measurements to calculate the center front.
Our point-to-point is 8. On your 25 inches on fold, mark out 4 inches on fold for the point-to-point plus half an inch seam allowance. This is done on the bust line. On your underbust line, you mark 2.5. On your upper bustline, you mark out 3.5.
Our original bust line divided by 2 is 19. Out of 19 take 8 so we have 11 left.
11 ÷ 2 = 5.5
It means each side is 5.5 plus ease allowance and seam allowance on the bust line.
The waist line is 16 when you take out 6 for the center front you have left 10 inches. 10 ÷ 2 = 5 for each side plus seamallowance.
Cutting The Sleeve
The sleeve is 6 inches in length. You will also need to work with the shoulder circumference at 40 so it fits at the end at exactly 40 inches circumference after sewing.
To cut the back
Cut 25 by 11 like the front also but instead of using the excess seam to create the bust ease you use it to create the zip part at the back.
Cut all your lining same way and cut your airstay same way. The bust part add warding to create the breast cups.
Iron all together and sew all into shape. It’s now time for the box pleats on the peplum part.
(See illustrations below)
The Peplum Area
Our total length is 25. We have removed 16 from it so we have left 9 inches.
Cut out 10 on a large circle to create the box pleats just like you see in the illustrations.
Remember to cut your lining same way. Sew the lining as turn up first then join it to the blouse part after the sewing. Lastly, fix your zip and tack your trimmings.
The Six Pieces Skirt
The hip is the biggest part at 42. Divide that into 6
Hip 42 ÷ 6 = 7.6
Waist 34 ÷ 6 = 5.6
So lets have each panel at 18 inches wide by 43 inches long, seam included.
At the waist part mark out the waist.
Mark out the hip line at 9 inches below.
Mark out the half-length at 18 inches below.
Full length at 42 inches below.
On each panel take your 7.5 for the hip plus seam allowance to join both sides.
At the waist take your 5.5 plus seam allowance to join them together.
At the half-length shape it to your desire when joining.
Out of the 6 panels cut one into 2 and add seam allowance for the center back zip.
On the 1,2,3 panels for the front lower the waist area by 1inch for the stomach area.
Shape out each panel and cut your lining same way too. (See illustrations below)
If you are confused by this tutorial it means you might require the basic class training or you not familiar with this particular method which is not a problem at all. As long as you learn a thing or two from this. Keep following our tutorials and also check out the other tutorials in the blog. You would catch up in no time!
Happy sewing guys.🖐😊
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