Padded peplum blouse
Making a padded peplum blouse can be challenging especially when you have to fully line the outfit and you don’t know how to go about it………… But not to worry, after this tutorial I am sure it wouldn’t be stressful anymore.
Let practice how to pad the bust area with this lovely peplum style
My measurements are
Back – 16
Neck – 7
Sleeve length – 10, Arm circumference 16
Upper bust length – 8
Bust length – 11, Bust circumference 42
Under Bust – 15, circumference 38
Point to point – 8
Waist length – 18 ,circumference -36
Blouse Length 27
In all the listed circumference areas the bust is the largest, noticed that I didn’t add hip to the list……. That’s because the style has a flare and gathers detail at the peplum area so no need for hip measurement. (meaning if the hip was on this list most likely I will use that because it will be the biggest among all the circumferences.
So I take out my bust measurement and divided that into 2 to represent my front and back block
Eg Bust 42÷2= 21 (21 each for front and back block)
Underbust 38 ÷2 = 19 (19 each for front and back block )
Waist 36 ÷2 = 18 (each for both front and back block)
Since the bust is the biggest part Eg 21 inches , I will use that to fold my fabric and add seam allowance for the bust cut (1 inch for each= 2 ) and the sides seams too( 1½ each =3 inch). Total = 5 .Note that we are working on the front cut
The length we are working with first is the waist length……. 18 +1 inch for seam (until we add the peplum part to the style before it becomes 27)
So I have so far now 26 on fold by length 19
On my paper on fold, first I mark out the specific lines for easy identification. This I do with all my length measurements (upper bust-length, bust-length underbust and waist length) then from the 19 inches I deduct the part I will add the net and label it cut away. its about 7 inches
Next, I deduct my point to point which is 8 but since it’s on fold I measured 4 + ½ inch for the seam on the bust line. While on the underbust line I deducted the 3 +½ for the seam. At the upper bust line, I deducted 3½ +½ for seam .center cut completed.
When I open my center front I have on the upper bust line 7+1 for seam 8
On the bust line 8 +1 for seam 9
On the under bust line 6+1 for seam 7
On the waist line 6+1 for seam = 7
Now let get the sides
To complete the sides now that I already know what the center front is is easy. Remember my main measurements on fold is 26 and on the bust line I have gotten 8 out + 1 inch for seam = 9,
26 – 9 = 17
17 ÷ 2 = 8½
½ each is for Seam allowance to join the center to the sides.
At the xtream end I deduct 1½ each for side seams allowance leaving me with 6½ each on both sides on the bust line.
Let’s repeat that process for the waist line. The waist total is 36.
36 ÷ 2 =18 (for the front and back block )
18 + 5 = 23 (for center and side seams)
On our center front we have gotten 6+1 for seam = 7
23 -7 = 16
16 ÷ 2 = 8 for each side cut.
deduct ½ inch each for seam allowance to join this cut back to the center front, and we have left 7½
Out of the 7½ ,deduct 1½ each for side seams lastly we have 6 inches.
** Time to Cut Our Breast Pads ***
Warding is usually used to pad the bust area. It’s a little soft but harder than airstay
It’s feasible – meaning that it can be ironed on a fabric, it has elements on it that makes it stick to whatever it is ironed on.
Cutting the warding into shape.
It’s very important that the warding is cut into a C shape on both sides so that when it’s joined it looks good.
When cut out it should look like this.
Note that it should only cover the upper bust , bust and the under bust.
When placed side by side with the center piece it should look like this.
When joined you should have this
Joining on both sides- the front
Here is the back side.
This is how it looks with
This is how we end the class of padded blouse. I hope you found the lecture interesting as I did. Don’t forget to leave us a comment and always come back here for more tutorials.
It’s been fun for me. Do stay blessed.
Valerie Boglo ??